An Algonkian man of southern New Netherlands circa 1645-1660, wearing a red duffel cloth mantle. Modeled by Drew Shuptar- Rayvis , Cultural Ambassador of the Pocomoke Indian Nation and living historian of the 17th and 18th century.
Duffel cloth, a coarse woolen cloth used by Europeans for blankets and coats in the 17th century became an important trade item between the Dutch and English settlers and the Native Americans, particularly the Algonkian peoples. Colors like brilliant red, blue, purple were desirable as they denoted status, black or brown was very useful for hunting, and "white " (which was likely undyed duffel) was also mentioned in the documents. This is just one example, there are many.
Undyed duffel (ivory colored because the sheep's coat was ivory) was used by the DWIC as standard clothing for slaves because the undyed cloth was cheaper, and provided warmth. Enslaved people who came from Angola or the Kingdom of Kongo were unaccustomed to cold weather, and duffel was essential to their survival.
Duffel cloth was produced in Europe in huge quantities to create uniforms for different countries. As the 80 years war in the Netherlands began to slow down, there was a surplus of this cloth, at the same time as it became of great value in New Netherland, so it made economic sense to transport it in cargo holds of Dutch ships to the New World where it was so valuable it could be used to negotiate a 'purchase' of land often called an Indian Deed from the Native Americans.
Woolen duffel cloth is very warm, and is still used in making coats and blankets today.
The Algonkian peoples valued duffel because it was warm even when it got wet. You can think of it as the 'polar fleece' of its day, and for a people who were accustomed to wearing deerskin, it was a revelation. A single ell of duffel could be cut into many loin cloths, or 2 ells could become a mantle as seen here.
Dutch and Algonkian men of southern New Netherlands circa 1645-1660, the Dutchman wearing a suit of clothes and the Algonkian wearing a duffel cloth Indian trade coat circa 1638-1655”